With Halloween behind us and the holidays ahead, we’re entering the “Big Dark” season in northwest Washington. Most of my hibernation hobbies involve hanging at home — reading, writing, playing video games and snacking on Vitamin D. But if there’s one thing that will motivate me to venture out (besides a rare sunny day), it’s seasonally appropriate beer.
Late fall and winter are the seasons for big, dark brews. Local staples such as Boundary Bay’s rich, malty Cabin Fever and Kulshan’s chocolatey Kitten Mittens have already hit the taps. These “winter warmers” are much stronger than your standard porter or stout, with alcohol-by-volume (ABV) in the 8% to 9% range.
Barrel-aged brews like Wander’s Earlybird Bourbon Barrel-Aged Imperial Breakfast Stout (9.6% ABV) are even more indulgent. Despite its name, Earlybird is a fine example of a dessert beer — a smooth, sweet sipper — best enjoyed in small quantities around the fire.
But it’s not all big and dark these days. You’ll still find zippy IPAs, crisp lagers and puckery sours across Cascadia. Some breweries go against the grain with their seasonal offerings. Aslan’s tart, refreshing Basil Lime Disco Lemonade, for example, keeps the summer vibe alive through December with a crushable 4.5% ABV.
Hops on the Rock returns
Beer festival season comes to an end in the northwest as fresh hops and festbiers fade away. One fest, however, returns in mid-November this year after a pandemic hiatus. Hops on the Rock — the Orcas Island beer festival — will take place Saturday, Nov. 12 in Eastsound. Featuring more than 25 breweries, cideries and wineries from western Washington, it’s the biggest annual beer fest in the San Juan Islands. Admission ($40 plus fees) includes six tasting tokens.
“We are thrilled to return yet again,” said Becca Gray, festival co-founder and Island Hoppin’ Brewery owner. “After a wildly successful first couple of years, we took a break, and now we’re back. We’ve got an exciting lineup of music, an incredible collection of breweries and a couple more surprises up our sleeves.”
Held outdoors beneath covered tents, Hops on the Rock is relatively tiny compared to the Washington Brewers Festival in Redmond (featuring 100 breweries) and Bellingham’s April Brews Day (65 breweries and cideries). But that’s part of the appeal.
Hops is a destination fest — all beer and attendees arrive by boat. You’ll likely bump into brewers (and maybe a keg or two) in the ferry line. Most attendees stay overnight, so you’re bound to run into Bellingham, Skagit and Seattle beer industry folks around Eastsound. For one weekend only, seemingly everyone is here for the beer.
“One of our goals, since we started, was to bring commerce to the island businesses before the winter sets in,” Gray said. “We wanted to find something fun for both tourists and locals to take part in, and what better way than with a beer in hand? Coming to the islands in the off-season is, in my opinion, a better way to really feel the essence of what makes this place so special.”
Gray recommends making ferry and accommodations reservations in advance, as they will fill up fast.
In addition to the main festival, there are beer-themed events across the island from Friday through Sunday. Events include a Structures Brewing dinner pairing at Matia Kitchen and a Fair Isle Brewing collaboration at Roots. Keep an eye on Hops on the Rock’s social media for event updates.
If you go and have the time, stop by Island Hoppin’ Brewery for a beer. Orcas Island’s homegrown brewery has been serving suds for a decade from its cozy taproom just outside Eastsound. Or you can literally island-hop for a taste of island-brewed beer. Lopez Island Brewing operates the Brewvado Taproom in Lopez Village. In Friday Harbor, San Juan Island Brewing offers a full food menu alongside its robust beer list. Happy hoppin’!
Beer and spirits news
• Chuckanut Brewery has tapped its first-ever barrel-aged beer. The brewery rested its Export Stout in Westland Distillery’s Oregon Oak whiskey barrels for one year. The resulting stout is strong (9.8% ABV), with hints of chocolate, coconut and licorice. Barrel Aged Stout is only available on tap at Chuckanut, but may be bottled at a later date.
• Wander Brewing collaborated with Chicago-based Solemn Oath Brewery to create Nightmare Cyclist, a Schwarzbier (dark lager). The spooky brew is available now on draft and in four-packs at Wander.
• Estelle is now open at the former Swim Club space in Fairhaven. A French-inspired bistro, Estelle offers elevated cuisine and enticing cocktails. One glance at the drinks list reveals a range of European ingredients — from Bénédictine (French herbal liqueur) to Brennivín Aquavit (a gin-like Icelandic spirit).
• Planning a holiday party? Various venues around town offer private event space rentals. The mezzanines at Penny Farthing, Ponderosa Beer and Books, and Twin Sisters Brewing are a few fun options in Bellingham.
Brandon Fralic’s Drink Cascadia column runs every other Wednesday. Reach him at drinkcascadia@gmail.com.
