I was wandering along the Riverwalk in downtown Mount Vernon a few months ago when a motorcycle pulled up next to me and the rider asked me where to find the local Cajun restaurant. It turned out he was looking for Poirier’s on the River, which had recently replaced the Trumpeter Public House.
Although I knew the Trumpeter had sold earlier in the year, I hadn’t heard that the new restaurant was focusing on Cajun and Creole cuisine, and promptly made plans to go try it out. It was delightful to walk back into the cozy pub full of polished cherry wood, a perfect spot to warm up on a cold wet evening.
The décor is still the same as the previous restaurant — and on our first visit even the receipts still said Trumpeter on them — but the new owners, Scott and Jolene Poirier (pronounced “por-yay”), are gradually making their own mark on the place. Although the décor suggests fine dining, the ambience is more gastropub.
One night we went in the music was hard rock, then the next time it was Dixieland jazz, well-suited to the cuisine. There are plenty of beers on tap, plus a full bar with a 21-plus seating area and a single television if you need to catch a game. Kids are welcome in the main dining area and fireside lounge. While there is a seating area outside, facing the Skagit River, it doesn’t appear to have been in use recently.
Crab beignets ($18) are an irresistible starter, served with remoulade. Deceptively light, these little fried pastries go nicely with a cocktail like the Starry Night, made with Empress gin, lemon and mint for a strong and aromatic drink in a dazzling shade of purple, or perhaps a classic New Orleans drink like a Sazerac ($14). Artichoke dip ($10.50), served with soft pita triangles, is like a dish of peppery queso with artichoke pieces in it, quite different from other artichoke dips, but tasty. I have heard there are plans to bring on more classic Southern snacks like hushpuppies and fried okra, which I am very much looking forward to.
Any Cajun restaurant worth its salt needs to offer shrimp and grits ($32). Poirier’s grits are a little chunky and taste like fresh corn. The sauce is buttery and flavored heavily with Cajun seasoning, and the shrimp are seared and coated in more seasoning. And then there’s gumbo, which isn’t currently on the regular menu but was on special recently, available in three versions: vegan, seafood and chicken with andouille ($34). Served with rice on the side, it was brothy but very good.
If you’re not in the mood for Cajun food, there’s a nice lineup of burgers, like the Bourbon Street burger with smoked gouda and bourbon onions ($18.50). The bun has a tendency to dissolve, but the burger itself is cooked to medium with a nicely pink center, and the seasoned fries alongside are excellently crispy.
Poirier’s is carrying on the Trumpeter’s tradition of offering gluten-free options for nearly everything on the menu (most of which is gluten-free anyway), and gives some nice vegan options as well. They make their roux with vegetable stock to allow for adjustments, and the menu includes non-meat dishes such as lentil croquettes. They will soon have red beans and rice as well.
While the menu features plenty of solid, comforting food, diners will also find a nice selection of salads. I tried the pear salad, made with fresh greens, gorgonzola, a hefty scattering of pecans and a grilled pear, served with pear dressing ($9.50 for a half order). This went nicely with a side of blackened catfish ($6), but I could also have had chicken or shrimp.
Pecan bread pudding ($9) is a must-try, served with whipped cream and your choice of raisins or no raisins. It was a little dense for my taste but my dining companion demolished it on two separate visits. Their crème brûlée is also very nice, served plain with a perfect crisp top, but I’m guessing we’ll be coming back for the bread pudding many times in the future — not to mention the fried catfish.
Poirier’s on the River is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, and 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Friday and Saturday in downtown Mount Vernon at 416 Myrtle St. Info: poiriersontheriver.com.
