This column explores root-to-leaf cooking, which uses all edible parts of the plant with a focus on seasonal ingredients grown and sold close to home. This month we are celebrating all manner of peas. All parts of this plant are edible and delicious.
English peas, snap peas and pea tendrils come together in this recipe as a gorgeous puff pastry tart. The tart layers these beauties in a cascade of textures, from silky, whipped peas to snappy pea pods and delicate tendrils. Tendrils don’t often make the journey to big grocery chains; check your nearest farmers market or local co-op, or replace with an equal amount of arugula. (If you can get pea flowers, too, by all means, use them as garnish.)
This tart is almost embarrassingly easy to make, especially given the ratio of ease to compliments you’ll receive. Swap out the vegetables on top with anything in season: shaved zucchini ribbons and blossoms, paper-thin radishes, fresh asparagus, just-cut corn kernels, sliced cucumber, pickled shallot — even thinly sliced strawberries.
Serve with a light salad or gazpacho for brunch or a light supper, and with salmon or roast chicken for a hearty meal. If you aren’t using puff pastry, make the whipped peas and toppings as directed and serve with grilled bread or over pasta.
The whipped peas can be made with a number of “bases”: tofu, ricotta and feta cheese are my favorites. I’ve included instructions for each option. Choose your own adventure.
Ingredients
1 sheet puff pastry
2 cups green peas, fresh or frozen (about 10 ounces)
Tofu, ricotta or feta cheese, as directed below
2–4 tablespoons olive oil, as directed below
1/2 cup fresh snap peas
1/2 cup fresh pea shoots (1–2 ounces)
2 tablespoons each fresh mint and basil
1 teaspoon lemon juice
1 teaspoon olive oil
Flaky salt or sea salt
Bake the puff pastry
Defrost puff pastry according to directions.
Roll pastry to a roughly 9×13-inch rectangle. Layer a baking sheet with parchment paper, and place pastry over top.
Prick the pastry with a fork along all four inner edges, making a straight line about one inch from the outer edge. This creates a little lip around the pastry as it cooks. Prick the tart all over the inside rectangle to prevent large air puffs from forming.
Cook your puff pastry according to directions until puffed and golden brown. Remove from oven. If any large bubbles formed during baking, lightly prick with a fork to deflate them back to a flat surface. Cool the pastry.
Make the whipped peas
Cook the peas; microwave according to directions or simmer with 1/4 cup water until soft but springy, with a bright green hue.
Choose your base, then follow instructions from there.
Tofu: This has the fluffiest texture, and is the best base for stronger flavors like radishes or garlic crostini. Use 2 cups peas to 14 ounces tofu (silken or firm). Drain and pat tofu dry. Add tofu and peas to food processor, along with 2 tablespoons olive oil and 1/8 teaspoon salt. Run on high for 2–4 minutes until fluffy.
Ricotta: This is most like a typical purée in texture, and would be especially good with lamb. Use 2 cups peas to 16 ounces ricotta (skim or full-fat). Add these and 2 tablespoons olive oil to the food processor, and run on high for 2–4 minutes until silky. Salt to taste.
Feta: This is the creamiest variation, and has the strongest flavor. Use as a dip, or spread on the bottom of a salad bowl and pile salad on top. Use 2 cups peas to 8 ounces feta. Add these and 1/4 cup olive oil to the food processor and run on high for 2–4 minutes until creamy. Taste, and if you’d like a bolder flavor, adjust the ratio of feta to peas. Salt to taste after you have reached your desired ratio and texture.
Assemble the tart
Prepare your toppings. Blanch snap peas in a pot of salted lightly boiling water for two minutes, then shock in a bowl of cold water to preserve color and snap.
Slice the snap pea pods in half down the seam, creating two mirrored halves with the peas inside. It’s OK if some of the peas fall out; we’ll just scatter these on top of the tart. Wash and dry pea tendrils. Whisk lemon juice and olive oil in a small bowl, then toss with pea tendrils.
Once pastry has cooled, spread the whipped peas over the pastry, staying about an inch from the edge.
Arrange split snap peas, peas-side up, on top of whipped peas. Scatter any extra peas across the top.
Scatter pea tendrils over the tart; lightly sprinkle with flaky salt. Serve immediately.
Hannah Green’s Root-to-Leaf column runs on the first Wednesday of every month.
