For a port city with a traditional fishing culture, Bellingham’s sushi options are somewhat limited.
Zen Sushi and KuruKuru Sushi are both conveyor-belt joints. Jūn’s Sushi and Bento on Railroad Avenue is casual and limited on seating. Blue Fin Sushi is good, and Fairhaven’s Fujisan Sushi is delicious, albeit still takeout-only. Then there’s Hokkai Ramen & Sushi, whose name — ramen and sushi — implies sushi is subordinate. But despite the ramen-centric branding and unassuming Meridian Street location, Hokkai’s sushi is rumored to be among Bellingham’s best.
Undeterred by the temptation of tonkotsu ramen, sushi is what I order — starting with a favorite, takoyaki ($8.50), or little fried balls of batter filled with octopus. They’re proof that every culture, everywhere, loves meat wrapped in starch and fried. The takoyaki are surprisingly light, so there’s no fear of filling up on them before the main course.
Next up is a sashimi combo ($17.95) and nigiri combo ($18.50). The sashimi — just cuts of fish, with no rice or sauce — is my favorite way to enjoy sushi. The delicate fish stands on its own, with no need for accompaniment. Tuna, salmon, and yellowtail are visually distinct and run from the mildness of yellowtail to the deep umami of salmon.
The nigiri combo adds the classic mound of rice and a few additional types of fish: albacore and hamachi, alongside a spicy tuna roll. The standout is the spicy tuna roll; despite what snobs think, you do sometimes want a bit more punch to the flavor profile. As an added benefit, such rolls allow the sushi chef a way to use up pieces of tuna not suitable for sashimi or nigiri.
For the mildly adventurous, spicy scallops, or hotate, provide an intense sweetness ($7.95). The quality of the scallop, like much of the sea life one encounters at a sushi restaurant, is easily identified, with lesser scallops being dull of flavor and chewy. These were buttery and absolutely delicious.
As always, my favorite fish is the tuna, or in this case maguro (the meat on the sides of the tuna). The maguro sashimi, sitting alongside the salmon and yellowtail, is nonetheless at the top of the sushi hierarchy. I prefer toro or ōtoro, the fatty belly of the tuna, but this is exceedingly expensive and in demand. As it gets rarer (and more ethically questionable), this demand only increases, and the price of ōtoro sashimi puts it squarely in the realm of luxury items.
You won’t find this level of luxury at Hokkai — or anywhere in Whatcom County, for that matter. We don’t have easy access to daily fish markets like Yat Ming in Vancouver’s Chinatown, or Seattle’s famous Pike Place. Initiatives like the twice-monthly Bellingham Dockside Market are attempting to fill that void; at my most optimistic, I think we may see more restaurants serving fresh, local sushi in the future. In the meantime, though, Hokkai checks the box for casual sushi dates — although our bill did come out to something in the neighborhood of $60.
Hokkai’s fish are fresh, the flavors interesting and even the sashimi — the purest expressions of seafood you can get without a harpoon — is delicate and carefully plated. You’re better off in Vancouver or Seattle if you want gourmet bento or celebrity-adjacent sushi chefs. But when it comes to for family-owned, no-frills sushi right here in town, you won’t find much better than Hokkai.
Hokkai Ramen & Sushi (4277 Meridian St., Suite C-102) is open 11:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30–8:00 p.m. Tuesday–Thursday, 11:00 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30–8:30 p.m. Friday, 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. and 4:30–8:30 p.m. Saturday, and closed Sunday–Monday. Info: hokkairamenandsushi.com.
Mark Saleeb is a frequent enjoyer of food. Find him at instagram.com/eats.often.
