On any sunny summer Saturday, a trail of ants — hikers — can be seen scaling the slippery slope of Aasgard Pass, headed for the iconic Enchantments in the Central Cascades.
Aasgard Pass claims 2,500 feet of elevation gain in a 2.5-mile stretch of loose granite boulders next to a waterfall. It’s a steep and rocky climb with (too many) false peaks. It’s honestly a slog, but one with beautiful views of Colchuck Lake to enjoy while desperately sucking up air and willing yourself to continue the climb.
At the top, hikers are rewarded with fabulous views of glacial-fed blue lakes amid rolling white granite fields. Mountain goats casually stroll through, feeding on the green shrubbery as their young follow along. Sharp peaks point to the sky, just out of reach in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. It’s like another world, accessed from a trailhead just a three-hour drive from Bellingham.
The trail then continues for many miles more, spanning approximately 20 miles between the Stuart-Colchuck Lake Trailhead to the Snow Lakes Trailhead, according to the U.S. Forest Service. More than 6,000 feet of elevation are gained and 7,800 lost in the journey through the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest.
The descent is not a simple, mindless hike on a clear path; it’s a heavily technical climb down endless granite boulders. One section drops 1,000 feet in elevation within a mile. Knees, hiking poles and problem-solving capabilities are heavily tested.
“Very strenuous” is an apt description by the U.S. Forest Service.
For years, many have applied for the overnight permit lottery to spend several days traversing between the granite peaks. In recent years, it’s become increasingly competitive. In 2012, 2,330 people applied for permits and received them. In 2022, 36,827 people applied and only 2,528 permits were awarded, according to the U.S. Forest Service.
With the chances of winning becoming slimmer each year, more are tackling the trail in a single day. Day hiker wilderness permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead. Currently, approximately 70% of overall use in the Enchantments is by day hikers, said Victoria Wilkins, a public affairs officer with the Forest Service, in an email.
She also noted that 1.5 million people visited the Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest, where the Enchantments are located in 2015. In 2020, visitation jumped to 4.1 million.
While the trail offers beautiful views of mountain peaks and lakes, it is not the place to go for those seeking to escape society and social interaction.
The trail is another victim of the COVID-19 pandemic recreation boom and the growth of outdoor influencers sharing the trail on social media. Hundreds more are taking to the route, which is impacting both the visitor experience and the fragile alpine resources, Wilkins said.
Wilkins said the Forest Service is not evaluating any proposals to limit day use of the Enchantments but is “looking for both short- and long-term solutions to address visitor-use challenges.”
If You Go
Warning: This is a very strenuous hike. Do not attempt it unless you have significant hiking experience and are physically fit. Do thorough research before going.
Distance from Bellingham: Three-hour drive to Snow Lakes Trailhead and another 20 minutes to the Stuart and Colchuck Lake Trailheads. Bring two cars, to drop one at the Snow Lakes Trailhead or book a shuttle pass.
Distance: 20 miles.
Elevation gain: 6,000 feet.
Elevation loss: 7,800 feet.
When to go: Late summer or early fall. Weekends are extremely busy. The trail is covered in snow for a majority of winter and spring and only recommended for those experienced in the backcountry.
Time: Most reviews say 12–14 hours online, but it’s important to note many who accomplish the hike, and write the reviews, are the fittest and fastest hikers around. If you’re not in peak condition, hike slowly or want to take a long, luxurious lunch with a swim break, it’s going to take quite a bit longer.
What to bring: Ten essentials, headlamps, food, water filters, trekking poles, rain gear.
Recreation type: Day hiking, backpacking (advised).
Permits required: Day hiker wilderness permits are free and self-issued at the trailhead. Overnight permits are a lottery system.
Hailey Hoffman is a CDN visual journalist; reach her at haileyhoffman@cascadiadaily.com; 360-922-3090 ext. 103.
