A new player in the Fairhaven food scene, Sugar & Co. takes the spot of the former Milano’s at 1210 11th St. The American bistro promises “casual fine dining” and live entertainment during service — something incredibly uncommon in Whatcom County outside of bars.
Sugar & Co. has a menu that is diverse and playful, ranging from Asian-inspired to steakhouse classics like oysters and filet mignon. Pricing is in line with Fairhaven mainstays, about $13 for appetizers and $25 for mains. The inclusion of a children’s menu with sliders, butter and parmesan pappardelle, and chicken strips makes Sugar & Co. the most upscale restaurant I’m aware of in Bellingham to feature kid-friendly options. And cotton candy as a dessert item? That’s positively whimsical.
As for the ambiance, the inside is warmer and cozier than I’d expected. The most common decor choices I’ve noticed are either Scandinavian Minimalism or Grandmother’s Formal Dining Room, so it’s refreshing to see something different.
At 7 p.m., while enjoying our drinks and waiting for the first dishes to land, LuVolútion — a local duo headed by Rogue and Valkyrie Dragonsoul — took to the corner stage. To my ear, the modern Western tunes fit the lighthearted but tasteful energy of the restaurant. It didn’t detract from the experience; in fact, I think that having live music at dinner is something tragically missing from the food scene in Bellingham.
We started our meal with the tempura ahi ($24). This appetizer would make an excellent sharing plate. Delicious: tangy and savory, with sweet chili sauce providing more tartness to offset the richness of the ahi tuna. A touch of crunch, courtesy of the delicate tempura, gives this dish some textural diversity.
The miso-glazed carrots ($11) have an air of the classic about them. Sweet and savory carrots are a steakhouse classic, and the addition of a miso glaze plants this firmly in the “fusion” category. The carrots are cooked well, toothsome, and the topping of crushed pistachios keeps the texture exciting.
The standout small plate was the cacio e pepe cauliflower ($15). This dish is knockout good: Redolent of romano cheese and black pepper, this appetizer would absolutely satisfy as a main with an accompanying side dish. It’s buttery and rich in a way that cauliflower has absolutely no business being, but it absolutely hits the spot.
Pescatarians rejoice: The pistachio-crusted herb market fish ($27) — cod, at the time of writing — was incredible. Herbaceous and bursting with flavor, the topping of pistachio played beautifully with the tender whitefish. The celeriac mashed potatoes are rich, creamy and savory, pairing with the topping of arugula to put on a culinary performance. The plate was swimming in butter — something I will only ever view as a good thing.
The creamy mixed mushroom pappardelle ($24) was the closest thing to average I tried on this visit. This isn’t a slight towards the kitchen; I think mushroom anything has a very narrow range of goodness between bleh and good. It was savory, creamy and had a bit of brightness to it — courtesy of a splash of lemon juice or vinegar, perhaps? This is an absolutely solid option for any vegetarians looking for a hearty dinner option.
Owner Brie Mueller told CDN that they would have the “best lamb burger that you’ve ever had in your entire life.” At $26, the lamb burger needs to punch hard. I’m happy to say that it absolutely did. Served with a bleu cheese, bacon jam, pickled onions, arugula and aioli, every ingredient came together in an orchestral swell of flavor.
Lamb is not typically my favorite meat for a burger, but even with the creaminess of the aioli and blue cheese, tang of the arugula and onions, and umami of the bacon jam, the delicate flavor of the lamb wasn’t overpowered. I am also elated to say that, for once, the brioche bun they use held up without any of the “melting” so common with brioche. Throwing my leftovers in the microwave the day after, it still retained its structural integrity.
As we finished off our cocktails — Tabi’s Old Fashioned (with peach bitters) and Honey’s Ginger Sour (subbing in peach and fennel liqueur and honey syrup) a table adjacent to us, celebrating a child’s birthday, had a serving of cotton candy come out for the birthday girl.
This exemplifies the energy of Sugar & Co. better than anything else: Speaking with Brie and Evan Mueller, they explained that, upon moving to Bellingham, “We couldn’t go anywhere for dinner with our daughter.” The kid-friendliness of the restaurant makes them stand out, and may be-off putting to some folks — to which I’d say, Estelle is across the street.
But, if you have (or don’t mind others’) children and want an excellent meal in a vibrant space, Sugar & Co. is not going to disappoint. Mueller set out to make a welcoming, vibrant restaurant, and she nailed it. More than that — I think they really do have the best lamb burger I’ve ever had.
Sugar & Co. is open 4–9 p.m. Wednesday–Thursday, 4–10 p.m. Friday–Saturday and 4–9 p.m. Sunday at 1210 11th St. Info: eatsugarandco.com.
Mark Saleeb is a frequent enjoyer of food. Find him at instagram.com/eats.often.
