Because I’m lucky enough to have married into a family based in Kansas City, I’ve naturally developed a taste for KC-style barbecue, with its characteristic sweet, tomato-based sauce. That doesn’t mean I can’t appreciate a good Texas dry rubbed spare rib, or vinegary Carolina-style pulled pork. However, the Pacific Northwest doesn’t really have its own barbecue tradition.
Most barbecue joints in this area end up using a mix of regional techniques and flavors, not to mention a wide range of possible side dishes. Here’s a roundup of some local favorites.
Big Stick Barbecue, Bellingham
Big Stick bills itself as “Texas barbecue with a Northwest twist” and offers both a food truck and brick-and-mortar restaurant.
They make truly delicious pork ribs, very tender with lots of meat. If you’re really hungry, go for the “Dirty Mac”: mac and cheese with candied pork belly chunks on top.
Get the cowboy caviar for a pickled side. I also highly recommend the rosemary potato roll, which is also used in all of their sandwiches. The Rissa sandwich features pulled pork, brie and jalapeno jelly, which is amazing — but don’t miss the Brisket Blue, with blue cheese sauce. All their meats are available by the pound. Info: bigstickbarbecue.com.
Double Barrel BBQ, Sedro-Woolley
If you enjoy a serious cowboy bar ambience with your BBQ, Double Barrel is the place to go, from the peanut shells on the floor to the rustic metal siding, and a large menu that includes burgers, fish and chips as well as barbecue.
Baby back ribs are thick and meaty, and the pulled pork (available wet, dry or mixed) is smoky and tender. On one visit, their chicken was dry and on the bland side, but was much improved with the addition of barbecue sauce (hidden behind the bar in the dining room).
Double Barrel is one of the few local places to offer fried okra — always a plus for me — but if you’re not into okra, there’s sweet poppy seed coleslaw, classic Heinz-style baked beans, Texas toast, cheddar biscuits and more. They also open at 7 a.m. most days for breakfast. Go here if you’re coming into town fresh from a long hike and need to restock your calories. Info: doublebarrelbbq.com.
Homeschool BBQ, Bellingham
Living up to the eclectic vibe of the old Homeskillet space in Sunnyland, Homeschool puts its own spin on barbecue. No particular region is being evoked here: Their sauce options include Kansas City, Carolina, guava-habanero, and a black garlic and bourbon.
Try their brisket or pork sandwiches made on rich flaky biscuits, or the Cubano with pulled pork. Sides include both classic and German potato salad, roasted vegetables and corn on the cob, as well as more traditional accompaniments. There’s a fun cocktail list for anyone who might like to settle in for some day-drinking in Homeschool’s colorful garden. Info: homeschoolbbq.com.
Brando’s BBQ, Bow-Edison
Located in the old gun shop at the corner of Chuckanut Drive and Bow Hill Road, Brando’s has been a wildly popular addition to the Bow-Edison scene. The inside dining area is much smaller than it appears on the outside, but they usually have some outdoor seating as well.
Their ribs are fantastic, but they also make the best smoked chicken I’ve ever eaten, so don’t miss the Alabama chicken sandwich with white sauce. And if you dare, there’s a “loaded BBQ sundae” with mashed potatoes, beans, mac and cheese, meat, slaw and sauce. They regularly sell out of everything, so go early to make sure you get the good stuff. Info: brandosbbq.com.
Kelley’s BBQ and Catering, Mount Vernon
Considering its location in a coffee stand-style drive-through in west Mount Vernon, Kelley’s “Southern-style wood pit” BBQ is not particularly high on ambience — but it makes up for it with its food. Their flavorful meats have a pronounced smoke ring, and the quarter chicken is tender and moist under its smoky brown skin. I love the mustardy potato salad as well as the finely shredded slaw, and their otherwise very sweet beans are full of surprise meaty bits. Info: kelleysbbq.com.
Danielle’s Back East BBQ, Bellingham
The Back East food truck is parked conveniently right next to the Wander Brewing patio. Its menu is split between traditional barbecue plates and mac and cheese bowls, plus a variety of seasoned fries. Both the Carolina pork and the Texas brisket are fantastic, with pink smoke coloring and rich meaty flavors.
Various sauces are available, including cherry chipotle, blueberry or mango chile (also one just labeled “completely unnecessary”). Eggplant “wings” are a fun vegetarian alternative, with Carolina mustard sauce as a recommended dip. Fried chicken tenders are peppery and crispy, and hush puppies, which come with every plate, are fluffy and delicious. Info: backeastbbq.com.
Other options
In addition to all these, Gunner’s Tex Mex BBQ recently opened in Glacier. I have not yet gotten to try it, but I like the sound of their brisket nachos and smoked carnitas, plus sides like charro beans and elote. In Lynden there’s JT’s Smokin’ BBQ food truck, and in Anacortes there’s Dad’s Diner A-Go-Go Old School BBQ trailer — so no matter where you are, there should be some barbecue well within reach.
Jessamyn Tuttle is a freelance writer and photographer based in the Skagit Valley.
