Downtown Mount Vernon has been through a lot of ups and downs over the last 10 years, so each new business is a cause for celebration. One of the newest additions to South 1st Street is the Skagit Valley Larder, a wine/cheese/picnic supplies shop tucked in between La Catrina and the Rick Leonard Gallery.
The space is small but bright and welcoming. Tables in the front hold crackers, jams and preserves, playful fruit-shaped candles, and truffled popcorn. The case at the counter shows off a variety of cheeses and charcuterie, including locally made Norcino salumi from chef Seamus Platt. There are drinks (wine, beer and non-alcoholic options) in a cooler; further back are tables and shelves laden with tinned fish, specialty chocolates, coffee and wine. Tables for customers are tucked under the awning out on the sidewalk, and a long counter in the window offers indoor seating.
Business ownership has long been a goal for Candace Kiersky, a Skagit Valley native. She began her career helping to open a new Beecher’s Cheese store in Manhattan, which gave her a deep education in domestic cheeses.
“They had me on opening day at the front of the store handing out fresh curds,” she said. “I got to tell everybody what a curd tastes and feels like in your mouth — it’s squeaky and rubbery. Then I learned a lot about domestic cheeses … I can still remember everything about the cheese that I sold there — what creamery it came from, what type of milk, what it looks like, how it’s made.”
Kiersky took over all the shop’s private events, doing wine and cheese pairing classes, as well as events featuring whiskey and cheese, or even chocolate and cheese. She then moved on to work as an event planner in New York City but eventually decided to move home to Anacortes. Kiersky then worked at Compass Wine as a wine distributor, building up relationships with other wine sellers and food producers.
“I could have opened this like 10 years ago, but part of what’s great about waiting was meeting so many people in the industry,” she said. “There’s so many farms and people making amazing things right around here that need to be highlighted.”
With the Larder, Kiersky wants to combine all of the things she loves about food and wine, and share those with other people: “I want this place to really feel approachable,” she said. “To kind of bring down the barriers for trying new things. To be a place where you feel like you can get educated if you want that.”
Kiersky is planning events for next year like whole-hog butchery and cooking classes. She’s already celebrated her grand opening week with wine tastings every day and even started a new wine club. With membership currently limited to 36, there’s already a waitlist, but Kiersky wants to start small to make sure it’s manageable.
There will be wine tastings weekly at the shop on Wednesdays from 4–6 p.m., and while the tastings are open to everybody, club members get in free (including a plus one). They also receive 10% off on all in-store purchases.
On the food side, you can choose from a variety of very European-style tasting plates with garnishes like radishes, bread, crackers, dried fruit, almonds or olives — perfect for sharing with a friend and a glass of wine (or a whole bottle, corkage is free!). A nice place to start is the “bread and buttah” plate, which comes with soft butter and salt, plus a good scoop of local n’duja, for $6.
Build your own board with your choice of cheese ($10 each) or meat ($8 each), or get a charcuterie plate piled with prosciutto ($15) or mortadella ($18) plus extra goodies.
Another option is the tinned fish plate, where $22 gets you the tin of your choice from the shop’s huge selection, plated with pickled onions and a squeeze of lemon, plus Snacker Crackers (which Kiersky says are “like crack”). Her favorite of the fish selections might be the Jose Gourmet mackerel in curry sauce.
“It’s like a gateway tinned fish because the sauce that’s in there is so delicious,” she said. “It doesn’t take away from the fish itself, but you can basically eat it straight out of the can.”
The shop is also just starting to roll out other prepared foods, like vegetable and grain salads, hand pies and a daily focaccia (a recent version featured a topping of sweet local squash with herbs and cheese). Kiersky also plans to add soup and sandwiches. There are some delectable cookies in jars right by the cash register, and you’ll definitely want to get a couple as you check out.
The Larder’s focus is on takeout, but with the option to eat in: There are around 12 seats indoors plus a few tables outside under the awning, where Kiersky has just installed a heater for cooler weather. “I love seeing people sit outside,” she added.
In addition to her weekly wine tastings, Kiersky anticipates offering some events before the holidays to help people plan out their grazing boards. All events will be featured on her website, Instagram page and newsletter.
Skagit Valley Larder is open 11 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Tuesday–Saturday at 513 S. 1st St., Mount Vernon. Info: skagitvalleylarder.com.
Jessamyn Tuttle is a freelance writer and photographer based in the Skagit Valley.
