North Bellingham is somewhat bereft of affordable, grab-and-go food options outside the realm of fast food chains. No location in north Bellingham is more emblematic of this than the vicinity of Meridian and Stuart Road, housing a Taco Bell, Wendy’s, Arby’s and a Taco Time, with a Wood’s Coffee positioned close by for the a.m. hours. It’s the gateway to the north county, the last real stop before getting out to Ferndale or Lynden, and an incredibly busy part of town.
But there’s a new option, and — spoiler alert — it’s a compelling one. Falafel Feast, at 4370 Meridian St., is the revival of the cult-favorite falafel food truck parked at the same location. The menu is somewhat expanded, with the newly-commissioned space of the brick and mortar, and fills a niche very near and dear to my heart.
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Growing up in a Mediterranean household, I’ve often found myself being out of luck when I’m feeling homesick. The previous iteration of Falafel Feast was remarkably good, and I consider it to be my duty — nay, my obligation — to confirm if it’s still as good as I recalled.
The menu is nothing if not concise. They have falafel, chicken schnitzel, beef kebabs and chicken shawarma, alongside French fries and hummus. It’s spartan, but eminently functional. Ordering was straightforward, and service was quick.
The beef kebab wrap ($14) comes with a 10–15 minute cook time, but was well worth the wait. The kebab wrap — seasoned meatballs, grilled and wonderfully charred — was hefty and comforting, with the middle eastern “salad” of tomatoes, onions and cucumber providing some bright and tangy acidity to offset the fatty, juicy, char-grilled beef. The pita was perfect, just enough structural integrity to contain the beef without being tough or chewy.
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The chicken schnitzel ($14) takes the same route, with the addition of a crunchy breading on the chicken tenderloins adding some textural contrast. The chicken was, like the beef, juicy and flavorful.
The chicken shawarma was my personal favorite. At $14, the bang for my buck was substantial. Heavily spiced chicken, spitted and rotating on a vertical broiler (aka “the spinning shawarma cooker”) is carved off the spit into the pita, dressed the same as the other dishes. It’s packed chock full of chicken, enough to sate even the most peckish of appetites. It’s aromatic and warming, the seasoning blend being full of cumin, turmeric and coriander.
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And, last but not least, we come to the topic I believe to be the most important: the falafel.
Putting the cart before the horse here, I can say with confidence that you can’t get better falafel at any other restaurant in Whatcom County. To elaborate: I grew up eating completely scratch-made falafel. They’re “just” spiced and fried fritters of ground chickpeas/fava beans, but in that simplicity, like a French fry, a huge amount of variance can be found. Most falafel I’ve had elsewhere is missing something, whether it be crunch, seasoning or texture.
Falafel Feast delivers on their name. My falafel plate ($11) came loaded with excellent hummus and a lovely ring of falafels. If you like falafel, you’ll love Falafel Feast — simple as that.
Mediterranean culture — and by extension, food — is all about generosity. Falafel Feast is generous in their portions, seasoning and pricing. At time of writing, their hours are limited to evenings, but I look forward to watching them expand. While it may be a bit out of the way for the downtown and Fairhaven dwellers, it’s quite a bit closer than a flight to Tel Aviv or Cairo, and just as good.
Falafel Feast is open from 4–8 p.m. Monday–Friday at 4370 Meridian St. Info: facebook.com/falafelfeast.
Mark Saleeb is a frequent enjoyer of food. Find him at instagram.com/eats.often.