Gnudi — pronounced new-dee — are sometimes called “naked ravioli.” These soft, light, pillowy cheese dumplings are held together by the barest coating of semolina flour, forming what is essentially ravioli filling without the pasta encasement.
Though ricotta is traditional for gnudi, I prefer Samish Bay’s vache cheese. Ricotta has a wetter, looser texture, and you have to strain ricotta at least once to get it dry and firm enough to shape. Skip this step and use vache. Vache also has a slight tang to it, which I think gives recipes a greater depth of flavor.
Samish Bay vache is one of my favorite kitchen staples, and I love that it’s made so close to home. Samish Bay makes all its cheese from organic whole milk produced on its 200-acre Skagit County farm. Other than making gnudi, use vache like you would goat cheese or cream cheese (and be sure to check out the vache frosting recipe on Samish Bay’s website.)
This is a quick recipe to make, but you must factor in the resting time for the gnudi. I tested these with different resting times and experimented with using the fridge and freezer, and the results are conclusive: This recipe only works with an extended resting period in the refrigerator.
The gnudi will form a protective skin, which keeps their shape during cooking. If you skimp on resting time, the gnudi will fall apart instead of holding together as ethereal little cheese dumplings.
Vache gnudi with lemon butter sauce
Serves 2
Ingredients
Gnudi
- 1 container Samish Bay vache (9.5 ounces)
- 3 ounces semolina flour (see note)
- Salt and pepper to taste
Sauce
- 4 tablespoons salted butter
- Cooking water from gnudi
- Juice and zest from one small lemon
Method
Prepare the gnudi
1. Pour semolina into a container to keep gnudi in overnight. Use a flat-bottomed container at least two inches deep and at least 7-by-9-inches wide.
2. Scoop the vache into 1-ounce portions. Use your hands to roll each ounce into a round ball roughly 1.5 inches in diameter. Roll each vache ball in semolina to completely coat, then leave the vache ball in the container with semolina.
3. Continue until you have nine or 10 balls, all rolled in semolina. Space the balls in the container so they aren’t touching one another.
4. Place the gnudi in the fridge and let stand, uncovered, for at least 24 and up to 48 hours.
Cook the gnudi and sauce
1. Once the gnudi have rested, bring a pot of water to a bare simmer. A rolling boil will be too rough on the delicate gnudi; we’re poaching the gnudi, not boiling them.
2. While the water comes to a simmer, prepare your pan sauce. Bring a large skillet to medium heat and melt the butter. Turn heat to low.
3. Once the water is simmering, add the gnudi one at a time and cook, stirring gently, until the gnudi float to the top of the pot, about three minutes. Don’t let the water boil.
4. Use a solid spoon or ladle to transfer the gnudi to the skillet. Add about 1/4 cup of the cooking water to the pan. Cook the gnudi and sauce over medium-high heat until the butter and water emulsify into a silky sauce, turning over the gnudi occasionally.
5. Squeeze lemon juice into sauce, sprinkle over the lemon zest, and serve.
Variations
Think of this recipe as a blank slate. The flavor combinations are nearly endless. For each variation, thoroughly combine the vache with the add-in ingredients and proceed with the recipe as written.
Gnudi variations
- Cacio e pepe: combine vache with 1 tablespoon cracked peppercorn (black, white or pink) and 1/4 cup finely grated Parmesan.
- Fresh herbs: combine vache with 1/4 cup finely chopped fresh herbs, such as chives, thyme, basil or rosemary.
- Walnut anchovy: mix in 2 tablespoons finely crushed toasted walnuts and 1 teaspoon anchovy paste; this is amazing with classic red sauce.
Sauce variations
- Brown butter and fresh sage leaves: brown 4 tablespoons butter, then fry two to three fresh sage leaves in the pan. Add 1/4 cup cooking water and toss until glossy. Add gnudi, turn to coat and serve immediately.
- Tomato sauce, butternut squash pasta sauce or pesto sauce: simmer your favorite creamy pasta sauce in a pan. Proceed with recipe as written.
- Lemon and spinach: toss in a handful of fresh spinach when you add water in step four.
Notes
For a gluten-free version, substitute an equal amount of finely ground cornmeal for semolina.
Serve gnudi and sauce with a fresh kale salad or lightly dressed arugula. You can also serve gnudi over pasta, risotto, creamy beans, roasted vegetables or sauteed greens.
Pair lemon-butter gnudi with Muscadet, a crisp, minerally white wine; for other gnudi variations, pair wine with the sauce.
Samish Bay cheese is available for purchase in their farm store at 15115 Bow Hill Road, Bow, as well as select farmers markets and retail stores. Info: samishbay.com.
Hannah Green's Rooted Recipes column appears monthly.
