Seasonal eating: Dandelion greens and goat cheese bites

Summer is a time of abundant green — leafy trees, lush hiking trails and bunches upon bunches of tasty greens from the farmer’s market and the garden. Many of these greens are considered secondary to the “main” produce: beet greens, carrot tops, radish leaves.

But there’s another category of edible greens often overlooked: weeds, including the humble dandelion green.

Dandelion greens, when young, are tender and mildly bitter, somewhat like a cross between arugula and baby kale. Raw or cooked, they’re an excellent — if unexpected — addition to your plate. Feel free to pick them from your own back yard, or find them at the co-op or farmers market.

This recipe works with any greens, really. More astringent varieties like carrot tops and radish leaves should be combined with softer greens for a more rounded flavor. To tame the dandelion’s gentle bitterness, I’ve paired them here with mustard greens. Though spicy (my favorite attribute of the mustard plant), they are also among the least bitter greens. Substitute arugula, beet greens, any kale, et cetera if that’s what you have on hand.

These cheesy green bites are the perfect summer snack.

Ingredients

Makes about 18 bites

• 1 bunch dandelion greens
• 1 bunch mustard greens or other greens (about 9 to 10 oz, roughly enough for 6 packed
  cups of greens)
• 2 small shallots
• 3 to 4 cloves of garlic (follow your heart)
• 1/2 cup packed mixed herbs—I like an equal amount of dill, mint and parsley
• 1/4 cup pistachios, finely chopped
• 3/4 cups panko or breadcrumbs
• 4 ounces goat cheese
• 1 egg
• Neutral oil
• Salt and black pepper to taste

Instructions

1. Thoroughly wash your greens, then chop into half-inch pieces. Wash the herbs and finely mince the shallots.
2. Heat a large pan over medium-low heat and add a swirl of oil. Add shallots, salt lightly, and cook, stirring occasionally, for 3–4 minutes until translucent.
3. Finely mince the garlic and add to the shallots. Stir to combine.
4. Add the greens and stir. Cook greens down for 2–3 minutes. Add the herbs and cook for another couple of minutes until the greens are fully softened and have cooked down to about 1/4 their original size. Remove from heat. Add the mixture to a large, heat-proof bowl and let cool.
5. Carefully wipe out the pan to remove any residue and reserve for later use.
6. Add the pistachios and panko to the bowl and stir to thoroughly combine. Add the goat cheese and stir to combine.
7. Taste the mixture and add salt and black pepper to taste. If you like, add about 1/8 teaspoon of red pepper flakes for a little more heat.
8. Add the egg to the bowl and stir until combined.
9. Heat your pan over medium-high heat. Add another good glug of oil, enough to generously coat the bottom of the pan.
10. When the oil starts to shimmer, start forming the mixture into balls. Using your hands, pinch off a golf ball-sized portion of the mixture and roll into a ball, squeezing a little to make sure it keeps its shape.
11. Add the balls one by one to the pan. Start on the outside edge of the pan, working in a circle, ending with a few of the balls in the middle of the pan.
12. Cook the balls on 3 to 4 sides, about 1 minute per side. (The balls will release when they’ve formed a good, browned crust on the bottom.) By the time you’ve rolled and placed the last ball in the center of the pan, the first ball placed in the pan will probably be ready to flip. Move around the circle this way, turning each ball, until each of the balls has browned on 3 to 4 sides. Remove the balls from the pan onto a plate.
13. Serve while still piping hot, or let cool to room temperature. These will keep in the fridge for several days.

Notes

You can cook these in patty form, but they don’t hold their shape as well and are less portable than bite-sized snacks. They would, however, make a great breakfast with a dollop of Greek yogurt and a poached egg or two.

Play around with what flavors you use! Many combinations of herbs, nuts and cheeses will work. Try cotija cheese with cilantro and almonds, blue cheese with chervil and pine nuts, or feta with oregano and sesame seeds.

Serve these cheesy green bites with baked salmon, lemony pasta, or with poached eggs and potatoes. They also make excellent hiking snacks or serve them as finger food at the park or on a picnic.

Wine pairings: Choose Sauvignon Blanc with grassy or citrusy notes, peppery Gruner Veltliner, or a dry sparkling wine with brunch. For a red wine, try spicy Carménère or Malbec.

Hannah Green's Root-to-Leaf column appears monthly.