The days are shorter, the light is lower and sweater weather is here to stay. The only reasonable course of action is to dive headlong into thick stews, bubbling casseroles and everything that melts, and not emerge until April — with a little balance, just to keep things interesting. That’s where this recipe comes in. Raw rutabaga, broccoli and cranberries add much-needed crunch and color to your plate. This winter rutabaga slaw is a match made in heaven with heartier dishes, from rump roasts to potato gratins.
Winter rutabaga slaw
Makes two servings
- 1 small rutabaga (about 130 grams)
- 2 cups (about 130 grams) broccoli stalks and florets
- 1 small apple (I used Honeycrisp)
- 2 tablespoons pumpkin seeds
- 1/4 cup feta, crumbled (about 2 ounces)
- 2 tablespoons golden raisins
- 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar
- Small amount boiling water
1. Scrub the rutabaga thoroughly. If the skin is very tough, use a peeler to remove the top layer. Using a julienne vegetable peeler, shred the entire rutabaga. You can also shred the rutabaga in a food processor, or use a sharp knife to cut it into julienne matchsticks.
2. Thinly slice the broccoli stalks and florets. Chop the apple into 1/4-inch pieces (including the skin).
3. Put the golden raisins in a small heatproof bowl. Add a small amount of boiling water, about 2–3 tablespoons, or just enough to nearly cover the raisins. Add in 1 teaspoon sherry vinegar and stir. Let sit until the raisins have plumped up, about 5 minutes. (You may skip this step, and add golden raisins directly to the slaw, but this step is very low-effort, high-reward.)
4. In a large bowl, toss the shredded rutabaga, broccoli and apple pieces. Drain the golden raisins, reserving liquid; add raisins to rutabaga mixture and toss.
5. If serving immediately, add the pumpkin seeds and feta.
Cranberry vinaigrette
- 1/2 cup fresh cranberries
- 1/4 cup olive oil
- 1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
- 1 tablespoon maple syrup
- 1/2 a small shallot, chopped
- Salt and pepper to taste
- Reserved water from macerated golden raisins (optional)
In a food processor or blender, add the ingredients for the vinaigrette. Blend until smooth and velvety, about 3–5 minutes. The longer you blend, the deeper the cranberry color will become. Salt and pepper vinaigrette to taste.
The vinaigrette will turn everything it touches a vivid pink; I prefer to keep the slaw and vinaigrette separate, and drizzle the vinaigrette over the slaw after it’s been plated. You may, of course, toss the slaw with the vinaigrette before serving, but only if you are going for a shockingly pink slaw that has pink rutabaga, apples and feta. (Perhaps fun for a children’s Valentine’s Day dinner.)
To serve, plate the rutabaga slaw and drizzle vinaigrette over the slaw just before eating.
Notes
This slaw is a great way to eat with the seasons. Follow root-to-leaf principles, making use of the whole plant, by leaving on the rutabaga skins and using broccoli stalks as well as florets.
You can make both the slaw and the vinaigrette a few days in advance, but keep them separate. (Rutabaga will not turn brown after slicing, so you can safely shred the rutabaga ahead of time without discoloration.) Wait to add the pumpkin seeds and feta until ready to serve.
To turn this into a hearty main dish, add chickpeas, roasted chicken thighs or crumbled sausage.
Cranberry vinaigrette can be drizzled over winter salads, grain bowls, roasted squash or sweet potatoes, or used as a sauce for roast chicken or pork.
Variations
This slaw is easy to modify depending on personal taste and what’s available. Instead of pumpkin seeds, try pistachios, sunflower seeds or slivered almonds. Instead of apple, use any kind of pear; I haven’t tried this with persimmon, but it’s on my list!
Swap feta for goat cheese, Gorgonzola or even finely diced sharp cheddar. Try using black raisins, currants, chopped dried fig or chopped dried apricot instead of golden raisins, following the same instructions.
Either the rutabaga or the broccoli can be swapped out in this recipe. Use an equal amount of shredded Brussels sprouts or shredded beets, both delicious raw.
Wine pairings
Cruciferous vegetables are notoriously tricky to pair with wine. Cranberries, with their bright and tart flavors, add their own dimension as well. Traditionally, cruciferous vegetables pair well with white wines with higher acidity, citrus fruit flavors and peppery herbal notes. Sauvignon Blanc and Gruner Veltliner are customary. I recommend Muller Thurgau, a crisp, dry white wine with gorgeous aromatics of orange zest, honeysuckle and hints of green apple.
If your table needs a red wine, go with Gamay, a lighter-bodied red grape typically grown in France or Oregon. Similar to a Pinot Noir, Gamay has delicate floral aromas, earthy notes and soft tannins, and is a classic pairing with cranberry dishes.
Hannah Green's Root-to-Leaf column appears monthly.
